Restoration

Restoration:

       If it ain't broke, don't fix it! - Before you do anything to a doll, even wash it's hair or clothing, consider if it really needs to be done. Sometimes restoring a doll can actually decrease its value. A lot of collectors prefer dolls to be in original played with condition, even if not pristine. If you do restore a doll in any way and intend to sell it on, you should always tell potential buyers what has been done to the doll.

       An ounce of prevention... - remember to check your dolls regularly. Move their limbs gently and look for signs of deterioration or the start of any problems. Even boxed dolls can develop problems.

       Miss Polly had a dolly who was sick, sick, sick! - Like humans dolls are prone to developing 'diseases'. These diseases are usually a result of an unstable plastic or vinyl formula or interaction between chemicals used in the plastic or vinyl coming into contact with other substances. Below is a list of some of the more common 'dolly diseases', and a remedy if known.

Remember: Try these remedies at your own risk!

       1. Green Disease - occurs mostly in the heads of vintage Barbie dolls and friends but can occur in modern dolls. It is caused by a reaction between the vinyl and metal objects such as earrings, necklaces, hair clips and headbands. A thick green substance forms within the vinyl and can spread across the whole head. Prevention: Remove metal accessories from dolls. Remedy: There is no sure-fire cure to Green Disease. Several treatments have been tried but most of these have side effects. One remedy is to use an acne treatment called Oxy-10, to fade the stains (they won't be completely removed). The head should first be removed by heating it gently by dipping it in hot water or by using a hairdryer (be sure to hold the hairdryer a good distance away from the doll to avoid melting the vinyl or hair). When the vinyl is warm, gently twist the head while pulling it away from the doll. Next thoroughly clean the inside and outside of the head using alcohol moistened cotton wool on a toothpick (get inside the earring holes too!), changing the cotton wool regularly until no more green debris can be removed. Wash the inside and outside of the head with clean water to remove any trace of alcohol and leave to dry. Apply a small amount of Oxy-10 to the green area and leave overnight. Remove the Oxy-10, reapply and repeat the process as often as needed to fade the green stains. This is not a cure, the green may return. Also some vinyls may fade using this method so you may like to test in an inconspicuous spot first.

       2. Blue/green Spot - occurs mostly on the legs of some dolls. It is caused by a reaction between the vinyl and metal wire leg joints or imperfections in the vinyl mix, leaving blue or green marks. Remedy: There is no known cure. You could try Oxy-10 (see above and at your own risk) but the best solution is to dress you doll in an outfit that covers the mark.

       3. Sticky Joints - occurs in mostly 1970's era dolls and is caused by a chemical reaction between hard plastic bodies coming into contact with soft vinyl limbs. The limbs seize up and a sticky goo may form around the joint. Remedy: There is no cure but you can stop joints permanently seizing up by regularly moving them and removing any 'goo' build up from around the joint.

       4. Fading - occurs mostly in 1950's to 1970's dolls. Caused by an unstable vinyl mix. The vinyl loses its colour either all over (e.g. the whole head) or in patches (just the tip of the nose, or pale blotching). Remedy: There is no cure. I have heard of people using artists markers to re-colour their dolls, however the long term effects of this are not known.

       5. Greasy Face - occurs mostly in some Barbie and Ken dolls and is caused by the separation of chemicals within the vinyl mix producing a sticky, shiny film on the doll's face. Remedy: There is no cure. Try wiping the heads with soapy water every so often to remove the build up. I have heard of people filling the head with substances such as bi-carb soda to absorb the 'grease' but the long-term effects of this are not known. The heads may shrink over time due to the excretion of the greasy substance.

       6. Plastic Melts - occurs in some accessories and on dolls such as Fashion Queen Barbie doll that wear wigs and is caused by a chemical reaction between two different plastic compounds coming into contact with each other. There is no cure. Prevention: Store hard plastic and soft plastic items separately. Do not leave them in contact for extended periods of time. Do not leave wigs on dolls heads or on wig stands for extended periods of time.

       7. Oxidisation - occurs to hair of some dolls, changing the hair colour. Some dark hair turns to a reddish orange colour; some blonde colours darken or take on reddish tinges. There is no cure. I have heard of some people using chemical cleaners to alter the colour of oxidised hair, however the long term effects of this are not known. Oxidised hair should be handled with care.

       8. Colour Bleeding - stains due to colour from shoes or accessories 'bleeding' into doll vinyl. Prevention: Remove brightly coloured shoes and accessories from dolls. White shoes and accessories do not usually cause this problem. Remedy: Try cleaning the doll with soapy water to remove stains. For stubborn stains try the 'green disease' remedy (above).

       9. Missing Limbs - Some dolls are just prone to losing limbs! This is due to a defect in the design or manufacturing process or because the bodies are strung together with elastic. Dolls prone to losing limbs include early 70's Barbie dolls such as Busy Barbie doll and Sweet Sixteen Barbie doll. These dolls may be able to be repaired using a glue called Loctite, without the loss of movement in the limb. However this is dependent on how badly the joint is damaged. Elastic strung dolls may be re-strung, again depending on extent of damage.

General Cleaning
(Again attempt at your own risk!)

       Always test the cleansers that you use on a small, inconspicuous a part of the doll and hair before you start. Using a small section of hair, test that it can be subjected to warm and boiling water without damage. Some hair fibres will shrink if heat is applied.
       Bodies: The doll should first be washed using dish washing liquid or a similar mild soap, in warm water. Take care not to let much water inside the doll. If the doll body has stubborn dirt that cannot be removed with the soap try a non-abrasive cream kitchen cleanser such as Jiff or Ajax. Rinse these products off well and quickly. If the stain is really stubborn, try using (Isopropyl or rubbing) alcohol on a cotton bud but rinse quickly as you go. If left on too long or if too much is used alcohol can leave a white residue. As a last resort acetone (nail polish remover) can be used but it will remove facial paint and finger and toenail paint and may damage some hard plastics. Again, rinse quickly as a white residue may occur. Dry your doll well.
       Hair: The hair should first be combed to remove any knots and foreign matter. Using the wide end of a comb, start at the ends of one section of the hair and comb gently, working your way up to the doll's head. Repeat the process with the fine end of the comb and finally with a lice comb or cat flea comb. Any really stubborn knots can be gently teased apart using a darning needle or pin.
       The hair should be washed using dish washing liquid or similar mild soap, in warm water (if the hair can stand warm water. If not use cold water).
        The doll's hair should then have hair conditioner applied and combed through. If the hair is badly damaged the conditioner can be left on the hair for an hour or two (keep and eye on it though!). Then rinse thoroughly; comb the hair and leave to dry.
        If the hair is really damaged or frizzy, try soaking it in a solution of one part fabric softener to four parts warm water. Leave overnight if needed (again keep checking it). Rinse the hair thoroughly, in boiling water if the hair will stand it.